Orientation
Cill Rónáin Kilronan is the largest settlement in the Aran Islands, but it is still little more than a hamlet. You can find most amenities here, including a grocery store, the ferry port and several hostels and B&Bs.
There are two main roads across the island from Cill Rónáin to Cill Mhuirbhigh Kilmurvy, a hamlet near the island's star attraction, the prehistoric fort of Dun Aonghasa. The busier and shorter of the two around 7 km crosses the center of the island, while the longer and more scenic of the two around 9 km follows the northern coast.
Understand
Inis Mór was once little more than a lifeless rock on the edge of the Atlantic. Its inhabitants have, over the years, created life where there previously was none, making things grow in their fields using dirt dug from cracks in the rock, combined with composted seaweed. Now all the fields are green, with low stone walls both dividing the fields and keeping the thin layer of soil from blowing away.
Today, tourism is a major industry on the island, but, unlike some parts of the country, it doesn't seem to override the local culture.
More information on Inis Mór from the Aran Islands Information website.